OK. Here I will tell you exactly how to upgrade and modify your VSR-10 or clone equivalent; from what parts you will need, to how to install them, to those optional little tweaks to make it fire a little sweeter.
This guide is based around upgrading to 500 fps. The only real difference is the spring power. Up to 130sp, your stock components will probably hold just fine.
Bear in mind that a lot of the disassembly of this weapon CAN be equated with that of most L96 variants on the market. Obviously the screws etc. will have different locations, but the key parts are pretty much the same.
The Parts You Will Need
The basics are as follows:
Laylax PSS10 150sp spring
Laylax PSS10 steel spring guide
Laylax spring guide stopper
Laylax piston head
Laylax high pressure piston *
Laylax trigger sear *
Laylax trigger sear *
* - not required when purchasing a Zero Trigger unit.
You will also definitely want a hard hop rubber. Firefly, Shark, KM R55, Nineball etc. This will DRAMATICALLY help your consistency and accuracy, as well as increasing your range. Using a soft hop rubber with any gun firing over 400fps is like using pencil rubbers to make F1 tyres (If you don't know what F1 is, replace is with NasCar, which i might add is the most mind numbingly boring sport ever created.)
The next purchases are optional, but recommended:
Tightbore inner barrel, recommend 6.01 or 6.02 millimetre.
Barrel spacers
Teflon re-enforced cylinder
Maintenance purchases:
Abbey silicone grease
Abbey silicone spray
NO OIL
Teflon/ PTFE tape
Also, ESSENTIAL purchase is the right weight, and high quality BBs. I recommend Maruzen SGM .29s as the best BBs you can possibly buy, but Digicon Straight .30 and .36 are also excellent, and much cheaper.
Installing Your Upgrades
While the core upgrades are very very easy to install, other parts can be more tricky.
Firstly, I assume everyone will know how to dismantle their gun down to it's component parts, so strip it down to the trigger unit, receiver, barrel, cylinder. Now remove your cylinder and open it up. (if you own a VSR-10 you will need to destroy a pin in the cylinder. If you require a link to explain how, just ask)
Now you have your open cylinder, take out your stock parts and disregard them.
Now, take your silicone grease and grease up as much of the inner walls of the cylinder as you can. This is to form a tighter seal, as well as a more smooth cocking action, and therefore a more consistent fps.
Now slide in your spring guide. Then your spring (the right way round, i.e. with the most coils towards the rear of the cylinder) and finally the piton. Make sure that the spring is fully inside the piston. Now take your piston head. Grab your PTFE tape, and wind it about 3 times around the threads of the piston head. This improves your air seal, which will help stop you losing any fps. Then attach the piston head. Your upgraded cylinder is complete.
Now, moving on to the trigger unit. If you have purchased the Zero Trigger unit, simply replace your old trigger unit with the Zero Trigger unit, then replace your stock spring guide stopper with the new Laylax one.
If you have decided to opt for the cheaper (but pretty much as good) option of replacing your sears, then you will need to very carefully remove the screws that hold your trigger unit together. Once this is done, The unit will come apart in two pieces. It is then very easy to slide off the trigger and piston sears from the hinge that they are mounted on. DON'T discard the sears. You will need a spring and a small metal rod from them in a moment.
Use a small screwdriver, pen or other thin object to push out the small metal rod that holds the piston sear t the trigger sear. DON'T LOSE IT. You can then take apart the piton sear from the trigger sear. You will notice a small spring resembling a circle with two branches sticking out at about a 60 degree angle from each other. Take note of the position of this spring on the stock parts, because you will need to replace this in exactly the same way on your new sears, otherwise there will be no resistance in the piston sear (it won't spring back up when pushed down) and your gun won't work.
There's a little trick to this. You will need to use a screwdriver or any solid object that will fit into the hole in the piston sear. Now, put this object through the hole in the trigger sear, through the hole in the spring, and into the hole in the piston sear. Now, from the other side, slide in the little metal rod that was mentioned earlier, withdrawing the screwdriver as you replace it with the rode, until the rode is flush against both side and fully seated. Now replace the whole unit, reassemble the trigger unit, and you're done.
Now, you will need to take down the barrel to the hop unit (again I am assuming that you already know how to do this, and if you need anything explained, don't hesitate to ask me.) and then you will have the hop unit and inner barrel. You will then need to open up the hop unit. there will be a plastic 'U' shaped item on a spring. this will probably find it amusing to escape. That's fine, just keep it to one side for now. You will now have the open hop unit and the inner barrel. If you have chosen to replace the hop rubber AS WELL AS the inner barrel and barrel spacers, you can discard the entire inner barrel.
To replace the hop rubber, simply pull off the stock rubber and replace it with the new one, being sure that it is on the right way. Then comes another little tweak. Take some PTFE tape and wrap it around where the hop rubber joins the inner barrel. DO NOT wrap it around where the hop prongs push into the bucking, as some people have recommended. It will most likely warp the rubber or put too much pressure on, which will ruin your consistency in terms of accuracy.
That little "U" shaped piece with the spring on it won't stay put while you close the hop up chamber? Just put some silicone grease on the points of contact and it should stay put (this works for all those fiddly little springs you will find with airsoft guns).
Now that you have installed all of your upgrades, made sure all the right parts are lubricated, you can spray some silicone spray onto some cloth and clean your barrel with it, reassemble your weapon and test fire it. If you wish to increase your hop-up further, there's a little tweak that you can do involving some biro tube. Open the hop chamber, take out the part which pushes the prongs into the hop bucking to create the hop, and then cut enough biro tube to fit snugly between them. Then re-install the part and you have more hop.
If you have any other questions about upgrading, any other mods that you'd like me to explain, or even any questions about how and why the upgrades/ modifications work, don't hesitate to ask.
Jim
Subject: VSR-10 the COMPLETE upgrade and modification guide 
Mon Jan 05, 2009 10:27 am
