This isn't my work ,i simply found it and take no other credit than that.I wasn't sure about how this forum would handle linking another so for now this is the info,Ill post an addy if the admin so wish it.
Spring Sniper Rifle Upgrade Guide
(uses TM VSR-10, JG BAR-10, HFC USR-11, and WELL MB03/MB02 as examples):
There's an upper limit to performance because of the nature of the projectile, and increasing the power doesn't really do much once you get above a 150 spring, except for allow you to use heavier bb's. That's good, BUT, there aren't any bb's heavier than .3 that are comparable in quality to the best quality of the light bb's, so accuracy isn't going to be all that much better. Mostly the advantage to higher FPS is in penetrating brush. Still, if you hit an obstacle in between (such as a twig), it's going to deflect no matter how fast the bb is going, or break and pepper your target with little bb shards, which is annoying.
As a general rule, I prefer to rely on M150's rather than using M170's or M190's (or 210's like some people have). I do this for 3 main reasons:
1. Durability--M190's and heavier eat through trigger parts, even zero triggers, like there's no tomorrow. If you pop in a 550+ fps spring, expect to have to buy new pistons and triggers fairly regularly. Eventually, you'll also break your cylinder and you will have to replace that, even if you get a nice teflon one, because of the stiffer bolt pull. Expect the bolt handle to go also. The short answer is that M150's are much more cost effective, since they don't destroy your parts nearly as fast.
2. Rate of fire; face facts, you simply cannot cock a heavy spring as fast, which means your ROF will get slowed down a lot, which means no follow up shots are possible. M150's are generally light enough to permit a second shot; it's a rare person who can do that reliably with an M170, because it's strong enough that it will slow you down AND throw off your aim.
3. Stealth; M170's and above are louder, and more, because they're harder to cock, you will have great difficulties cocking them without adjusting how you hold your rifle. That means that when you're trying to remain hidden, you're going to have a chore if you need to reload your rifle.
So, what do I recommend?
Well, obviously if you're trying to keep your budget low, you should consider getting a JG or WELL rifle instead of the TM, Maruzen, or CA version, assuming that the guns are fully compatible. You can see about buying the TM suppressor from someone, since the JG GSPEC one is just a mock one. That keeps initial costs lower by quite a bit, unless you find a real deal.
List of Parts Compatibility
APS2:
CA M24 takes APS2 parts
AGM MP001 takes APS2 cylinder parts
AGM MP002 takes APS96 cylinder parts
WELL MB01 (TSD L96/UTG Mk96) takes APS96 upgrade parts (some may require minimal modification)
BE L96 takes APS96 upgrade parts
VSR-10:
JG BAR-10 (Regular and GSPEC) takes all VSR-10 upgrade parts.
WELL MB02 and MB03 take most VSR-10 parts, but the receiver is smaller, so cylinder parts don't fit well. May require modification to work properly.
HFC USR-11 takes all VSR-10 upgrade parts.
AGM MP001 and MP002 both take VSR-10 trigger parts with some modification required.
Upgrade parts for other guns are not readily accessible.
As for upgrades, here's what I recommend:
Optic
First, make sure to get a nice optic. I like the one-piece scope ring mounts like the Accushot, but the scope is the most important part. Get one that will hold it's zero even if it gets bumped around a lot. Optics designed for a real rifle are great. I also recommend a variable power scope, although the minimum zoom should not be greater than 4x. I personally prefer the M3, which has a 30mm tube for better optics, but has a 40mm objective which is easier to camo. The zoom is 3.5-10x, which is pretty much perfect, and it has a mil-dot reticle, which is very handy for taking long range shots. Many people like 50mm objective lenses because they have better light-gathering, and hence better optics, but they're very large, and can be hard to camouflage.
If you want some good scopes for a good price, try
www.matchstickglobal.com. They've got some nice ones.
www.ehobbyasia.com also has pretty good deals as well. I personally avoid sporting goods stores, as I can get better scopes for cheaper at the above places. If you're rich, you may want to get a real steel scope as well.
Good airsoft scope brands include: Tasco, Barska, Leapers, G&P, Action, and the ACM (China made) scopes. I personally don't like NC Star, but many people swear by them. In any case, they're usually the worst of the cheaper scopes.
Good middle-range real-steel scope brands include: Bushnell, Millett, Simmons, Burris, Redfield, and Nikon.
Premier quality scopes (typically more expensive than your gun will be) are made by the following manufacturers: Trijicon, Leupold, Zeiss, and Unertl.
There are several other good scope makers, but those are most of the big ones that you will be able to find relatively easily.
Next, you're going to want accuracy upgrades.
Accuracy Upgrades
1. 6.01mm tightbore bull barrel with ported end. EdGI barrels are probably the best, because they're thicker, or PDI because they're steel and have the tightest tolerances. Both are pricy (85-150 USD). You can also get a DBC barrel, which are much more cost effective (60 USD) (although they're so cost effective that they might be going out of business, so get it while you can). The tightbore also has the benefit of increasing your FPS.
The GSPEC, JG GSPEC, and MB02 use a 303mm tightbore. If you're going to use a longer one, don't bother getting the GSPEC; it's a waste of money, especially as you're going to be replacing lots of parts.
The VSR-10 PS, RS, and HFC USR-11 use 430mm barrels.
The JG BAR-10 has a 435mm barrel.
The WELL MB03 has a 460mm barrel.
2. Nineball or Firefly hard bucking (30 USD). The nineball is more reliable in terms of consistency, because it's an airseal bucking. The firefly has an H-nub, so it keeps the bb more stable. I personally prefer the nineball to the firefly for overall consistency, but I don't have strong feelings one way or the other. The nineball IS cheaper and easier to find.
3. Several barrel spacers to reduce vibration and wobble.
Some people swear by the air seal chamber; I personally think that the stock TM hopup chamber is plenty good. You should teflon mod the hopup to guarantee the seal.
Those are the main accuracy upgrades.
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Durability and FPS Upgrades
For a high FPS setup, you're going to also want a good number of durability upgrades. The ultimate would include the following:
Necessary upgrades:
1. Spring of your choice (I prefer M150--500-550 fps)--20 USD. Be sure to get a sniper rifle spring; they're thinner than AEG springs.
2. Teflon or palsonite cylinder for durability and lighter bolt pull--100-200 USD. It's best to get a cylinder that has at least 4 pins in the rear; that prevents the cylinder from breaking as quickly because there are more points to take the stress. The Laylax teflon cylinder is my personal preference for a GSPEC or standard length VSR. There are upgraded cylinders available for the APS2 (UTG L96/TSD L96/WELL MB01, AGM MP001, AGM MP001, CA M24 are all compatible with APS2 parts).
3. Laylax bearing metal spring guide (durability, keeps the spring from putting too much stress on the guide and cylinder) (35 USD). There are a number of APS2 spring guides as well. Bearing ones are preferable, but most of the APS2 ones are just metal guides.
4. Laylax Zero trigger or PDI V-trigger (100-200 USD) This comes with a high pressure piston, incidentally. You may also want to weld or glue on some extra strips of high grade metal along the box for strengthening, although if you take my recommendation and use an M150, you won't need to.
5. Laylax silent dampener PRO cylinder head with tapered nozzle (65 USD). This quiets the gun down, is more durable, and guarantees perfect seal with the hopup because of the nozzle design. Really really nice upgrade part. Don't forget to teflon tape the threading for better seal. Remember, if you got the Palsonite cylinder, you'll need a BORE-UP cylinder head and boreup receiver and bore-up piston. Bore-up is not helpful for a GSPEC length gun (or for a stock VSR--it's only for guns that have absurdly long barrels).
I also highly recommend you get the upgrade bolt handle. That runs around 60 USD as well.
Recommended places to look:
www.wgcshop.com (you can special order through Airsoft Advantage to save on shipping),
www.trinityairsoft.com, www.poweredgeusa.com, www.dentrinity.com, and
www.airsoftextreme.com. Barrels are available at
www.deescustoms.com, by PMing EdGI on ASR, or on the above sites.
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External Parts
For external parts, you may want to get a new stock, fluted barrels, new receivers, etc. I highly recommend the Laylax real mount scope mount; it looks MUCH better than the usual scope mount. The Smokey's variable buttplate is a nice aesthetic upgrade as well. Fluted barrels look nice, but I don't particularly think they're necessary. I don't think that longer barrels are a worthy investment, as they sacrifice a lot of maneuverability in the field, are harder to camouflage, and do not net you enough accuracy to be worth it. You may also want to buy or make a cheekrest. There's a nice one that can hold fake bullets at
www.ehobbyasia.com. You can also make your own with some leather and foam, or you can cut up a PDA case. That works quite well also.
You may also want a bipod; Harris bipods are very popular. The SRC is the cheapest alternative. Rockmount bipods are also popular. Bipods may take some getting used to, since they can get caught on things. If you're planning on carrying a ruck, use that instead of a bipod. Do NOT get a barrel mount, or any sort of UTG/Leapers bipod. Those are all garbage, and are much too high for a sniper rifle. They're okay for a machine gun, but not for someone who wants to lie prone and fire. Plus they look stupid.
Aesthetically and practically, you may also want a ghillie wrap. You should make your own out of a combination of burlap and jute thread and die. Cover the scope and the barrel, but leave the rear of the rifle clear, so nothing gets in the way of the action.
Avoid lights and lasers; they give away your position and interfere with shots.
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Ammunition
Finally, ammunition. I recommend that you use at least .28g ammunition, and probably avoid heavier ammo. Recommended ammo types:
.28g: TSD or Airsoft Elite (AE).
.29g: Maruzen Super Grand Masters (SGM).
.3g: TM (out of production), or KSC.
You can experiment with heavier, but those brands have the highest quality, and will be very reliable. Do not use lighter than .28g in a sniper rifle.
Subject: Spring rifle guide 
Fri Jan 16, 2009 12:44 pm
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