CYMA M14

k so ive been thinking about this gun for along time, and i think ive made the decision to buy it. i dont know when i will be able to buy it but thats a whole other deal. so ive assembled a parts list for you all to see what you thought.

INTERNAL

spring guide:
http://www.airsoftsmith.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=39_50&products_id=741

spring:
http://www.airsoftsmith.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=39_50&products_id=158 or http://www.airsoftsmith.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=39_50&products_id=539

hop-up bucking:
http://www.airsoftsmith.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=39_53&products_id=475

barrel:
http://www.airsoftsmith.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=39_45&products_id=1127

cylinder kit:
http://www.airsoftsmith.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=39_46&products_id=969

motor: i choose a speed motor because i use 8.4 for longevity and this way i could still have a snappy trigger response
http://www.airsoftsmith.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=39_48&products_id=763

bushings:
http://www.airsoftsmith.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=39_47&products_id=582 or if i can http://www.airsoftsmith.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=39_47&products_id=351

i herd the gears were fine so i was going to leave them alone. but if i do have a gear problem im planning on using wither stock marui gears of speed gears if i have the money.

EXTERNAL


scope:
http://www.airsoftsmith.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=30_80&products_id=1043

rings:
http://www.airsoftsmith.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=30_80&products_id=1044

mount(if it doesnt come with one):
http://www.airsoftsmith.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=30_80&products_id=479

Mags:
http://www.airsoftsmith.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=25_40_62&products_id=816

then i would add a custom paint job done by myself:
estimated costs $40

IN CLOSING

Sub Total (parts): $415+tax

TOATL: $535+tax


this will be a project gun so i will not get all the parts at once. i think i gonna start with the externals (except for the paint). then go with all the internals doing the spring last so im sure my gun can take the stress.

what do ya think? replies would be very appreciated

sticks

I don't know much about the CYMA guns but with those parts it should be fine. I think that you should put a M130 spring in it though.

PS: What role do you plan on using this gun for?

You could do that, or just buy a CA / TM instead.

I am sure it would be a pretty good package once you were finished... make sure the cylinder will work with the mechbox. My Echo 1 M14 was hard to find a cylinder for.

That is a lot of money to put down on something that might now perform as well as you would like. After I put a bunch of money into the Echo 1 M14 it still didnt perform as well as my CA36. So you may want to consider that before you purchase everything. I am not trying to put down your plan, just giving you what I have come across in the past.

If you go above an M120 you will want to use a torque motor and atleast a 9.6v battery.

I have a M140 in my DMR and a stock JG motor and my ROF isn't bad. I do have Systema Torque up gears though so that helps and a 9.6V battery. The only thing is if I use full auto alot my grip gets warm from the motor heating up.

to Seabass:
i thought about getting a TM but its alot more compared to the CYMA which has the same external strength as the TM etc etc, and then i would only be able to spend $200 on upgrades (internal/external) to meet my budget. when i add the externals alone they total 180 without tax. so that wouldn't work too well. im not going to buy the CA M14 because they cant use TM mags like the CYMA can. so i would be spending 35 for a G&G mag a piece.

i also did my research before choosing this gun. its fully TM compatible, the internals are OK but the only thing that is TM strength is the gears. they have reported better motor life than JG's (that was the hardest thing to find) and they can use TM mags(biggest +). IDK it just seems like a lot of money to buy a TM even though i wouldn't have to worry if my gears were going to hold up. again this is a project gun so its going to take along time to actually finish.

thanks for the thought Seabass though!

Fox: i plan on using it for DMing. i would put a higher strength spring in it but according to Ohio FPS laws i have to be over 18 to shoot any higher than 400FPS. otherwise i would, but i would switch out the motor and the gears to high torque.

wow thanks for the fast replies

sticks

sorry for the double post but i thought this needed its own post.

again im not going to use full auto very much(if at all) so i think a 9.6 would be over kill. plus it is misconcepted that 8.4's cant pull an M120. i use 8.4's in my M4 with no problem. ye i dont get as good rate of fire but it still works better for me as im not out there to put 50 rps (rounds per seccond) down range. i will admit that it is kinda moral shattering to hear a 9.6 or higher running through a SAW thats on the enemy's team.

according to an official statement from Systema the turbo motor can be used with springs under the M130 rating. so i should be good there. i chose the Turbo over the Torque because i want to maximize the efficiency of my gun, and from what ive seen 8.4's turn out as much if not greater RPS than 9.6's without the turbo motor. so it wont be that big of a deal.

keep the replies coming!

sticks

PS: fox the whole hot motor thing either means that you need a higher strength motor or you need a grip with a "sink" or a place where the motor can cool off. most after market grips have these "sinks".

Mine is after market. And when this motor poops out on me then I will buy a new one, but for now it is fine.

If you are building it slowly, why not go for the TM and just slowly build it up the way you want to? First get a few internal upgrades, a few external and then go from there... I just know what its like to regret not buying what you should have in the first place.

Another question I have to ask is, have you ever handled an M14? They are fairly heavy is the only reason I ask. I really like the feel of my Echo 1 M14... it is extremely solid, but it can get sort of tiring carrying it around all day... then again I also carry around a full metal AK with an M203 on it... but hey its got an M203 on it. Not to mention it probably has a higher rate of fire than a SAW running on a 9.6v as it has a Systema Magnum running off of a 9.6v battery.

ye i got to hold a TM M14 with a wood stock, it weighed 15lbs. my M4 is a 9.4 with battery and standard mag so this wont be a big difference to me. i dont know if i can talk my parents into letting me "waste" more money on another $300 gun. but i shall try. if i get a TM i dont think i will have to replace anything in the cylinder except the spring guide and an M120. i dont HAVE to replace the motor if i get a TM but i would like to eventually. the barrel, bucking, mags, scope and accessories are a must though
i guess it wouldn't be that different in cost if i got a TM, the difficult part would be convincing my parents to let me buy it.

thanks Seabass now that i think about it i might go with TM(which is the perfect project gun anyways). then i could keep my airsoft bloodline pure, cept for my M9

sticks

I thought you might come around.

Yeah the M14 series can be pretty heavy... the Echo 1 EBR is pretty much a solid piece of metal, TM with a wood stock would be right up there as well, and pretty much any other make is right up around 10+ lbs. Once you add a scope, bipod, mag w/bb's etc... it starts adding up pretty quick.

They do feel really nice to carry around though. My Echo 1 feels like it is indestructable. The TM mags are fairly inexpensive, and you wouldnt have to add a lot of stuff to the TM version to get good performance out of it. The stock motor will work great with an M120... a lot of guys ONLY use the TM EG1000 and swear up and down by it as the best motor in an airsoft gun. I have to admit, I prefer a Systema Magnum myself, but for the money it is hard to beat the EG1000.

It probably will be hard to get past your parents, especially since you already have a decent primary. Good luck I guess... Just tell them its better that you play airsoft than selling crack on the streets.

lool well they already know that i sell crak anyways(jk)

so i was talking to my old boss Andy at airsoftsmith and he was saying that really for what i wanna do to the M14 series(make the SD DMR version) that the CA would be the way to go... he said that it wont take long for standard mags to come out for them so that wont be a problem... and they are $100 cheaper than the TM. i can leave it stock and have an M120 spring in it9most likely the PDI 170% or the new Madbull M120's). get it shimmed and a new TB barrel (was thinking KM but now that ive seen the systema who knows) then all i would have to do is get the externals on the list... and maybe a Speed motor.

what do u guys think of the new list?

sticks

I suggest you use the pdi170 and the ff:

1. invest on a good 9.6v battery this will give you higher ROF on stock gears.
2. changing the hop rubber is not a priority, not unless the stock is lousy or broken.
3. recheck if the cyma barrel is already 6.04mm id, I read somewhere it is.. if not, go for prometheuse barrels.
4. you don't need the cylinder kit with a pdi170, stock parts will run but if you still want to change it.. Save money use TM stock piston w head (just port the head) or buy the parts minus the cylinder, the stock cylinder will do..

5. stock motor will do using pdi170

with the above mentioned, I think you will have enough to get the extra mags, and scope mount..

is your cyma m14 the wood version or the OD version? I know a tecnique on how to make the plastic wood version to look more realistically wood like.

mercenary wrote:

I suggest you use the pdi170 and the ff:

1. invest on a good 9.6v battery this will give you higher ROF on stock gears.
2. changing the hop rubber is not a priority, not unless the stock is lousy or broken.
3. recheck if the cyma barrel is already 6.04mm id, I read somewhere it is.. if not, go for prometheuse barrels.
4. you don't need the cylinder kit with a pdi170, stock parts will run but if you still want to change it.. Save money use TM stock piston w head (just port the head) or buy the parts minus the cylinder, the stock cylinder will do..

5. stock motor will do using pdi170

with the above mentioned, I think you will have enough to get the extra mags, and scope mount..

is your cyma m14 the wood version or the OD version? I know a tecnique on how to make the plastic wood version to look more realistically wood like.

well first off I dropped this project awhile back, but I'm glad your participating.

1: I was going to replace the gears and the motor.
2: The CYMA hop-up rubbers are crap, now tht I look back I would probably invest in a H nubbing.
3: I would acually get a Madbull barrel because 3 different people on 3 different forums have all measured the inner diamiter of the barrels and the are all 6.01mm not the advertised 6.03.
4: again CYMA parts are crap, I was going for a poly carb piston with same company head for a snug fit.
5: CYMA parts am fail, systema speed is not, and this would allow me to pull a 120 spring faster then a standared motor with a 9.6 for the same price.
6: I was looking to replicate the USMC DMR25 so I was going to get a different stock(one that replicates the real version).

sticks

Topic answered. Thanks for the update Sticks.

Closed.