JG G36C External and Internal Upgrades

Mike's thread really sparked my interest in this.

What sort of upgrades do you guys think I should buy to make my rifle more effective for CQB? Right now, my entire rifle is stock, with the exception of the spring, which has only been cut down.

One of the things I was actually considering doing was buying this, a PEQ box, and getting a bigger battery. Right now, my rifle is using a 8.4v 1100 mah JG Works battery, which is the stock battery.

edit: or, since I like longer rifles, how difficult would it be to change my rifle into a G36K? I could buy this, and an extended barrel, and redo the wiring, which I would have to do anyway.

"Watch your language", this is turning into a whole different thread.

Actually if your battery is in the handguard, the RAS gives you more of an option to sneak a wire through the wholes and put in a peq box...
As for turning your gun to a rifle...
Look at your cylinder, and tell us if there is a hole. and if so where is it at and how big the cylinder is..
Also measure the barrel, so we can tell you how long of a barrel you want to get..

You CAN put a weaker spring for CQB games...

sorry, bro, can't, my rifle's at the field. the guy is cutting down the spring and I had to leave it there.

and putting in a PEQ box is exactly what I want to do. putting the battery in the "Watch your language" hand guard pisses me off because it takes me five minutes to do it.

What kind of performance do you want with it such as RoF/FPS/accuracy?

FPS needs to be below 330, so 300-315.
ROF about 10-20 rounds a second.
I would like to have fairly decent accuracy. I'll be using my rifle for CQB mainly, but field is an option in the future.

Jarhead999 76 65 wrote:

FPS needs to be below 330, so 300-315.
ROF about 10-20 rounds a second.
I would like to have fairly decent accuracy. I'll be using my rifle for CQB mainly, but field is an option in the future.

Easy enough for those goals.

M100 tension rated spring and a 9.6 v. NiMh. Nothing needs to be complicated about your set up at all. Just make sure your gearbox is properly shimmed, possibly add bearings, no real need to switch out the nylon bushings unless they are damaged/worn down.

What would you say your budget is for this project? Maybe I can help recommend something that would get you a little more RPS to put down-range?

Well, at the moment, my budget is $36, haha. I think I'm going to do this project after Christmas. I'll most likely have more money then. I don't really think anything in my rifle is going to be that worn down; it's never been on the field. I've only fired maybe 2,000 rounds through it.
I don't really want my ROF to be anything of 30 rounds per second, though.

Well with people really getting into using LiPo's your going to have some rough competition. Definitely in my area I have had to begin making upgrades because my opponent has the advantages of quicker trigger reaction time with the added RoF on a higher tensity spring keeping me pinned down, pissed off with bleeding welts. I call my hit and can't even get the oppuritunity to get up because by that time another guy will come up and light me up just out of pure instinct. So I just lay there until the area is cleared...then walk back. lol

so you think it would be wise to have either a really high ROF or install a Li-Po?

At least for airsoft High RoF in CQB is great. And you don't even need to be full auto. In fact I would try to have as much personal control as possible and install 3 rd burst / semi MOSFET for the obvious reasons. + its more pro.

It really depends on what you want, what the majority is rocking to the CQB field, and your budgeting.

Well, the main things I see at my field are either A) highly upgraded weapons with high ROF and full/semi settings or B) players with rentals that are stock Maruis, Echo 1s, and one CA.

say I want to do 30 rounds per second with 3 round burst and semi settings, a MOSFET, and Li-Po, plus rewiring. How much do you think it would cost?

Upwards of 50 to 100 $ depending on what parts you already have and who you know.

Most retailed MOSFET units are priced at 50-$60 but if you know a tech who makes them, for example like my connection I can get one for half that. I would actually run 3 rd and auto...just exclude semi completely. unless you buy a 3 option MOSFET. Semi- 3rd - full

As for wiring and deans... http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com The store tech I know says he can get them somewhere else cheaper but has not told me where. However those are the lowest prices I have seen for 16 AWG and deans.

As for setting up your JG for a LiPo there are certain upgrades you need to make.
For starters upgrade it like you would for a spring upgrade, install bushings...if you have the 7mm shell, get bearings and you can determine the diameter you need with calipers. And of course get the best-possible shim job which if you have experience doing good, but if not there are numerous guides on how to properly adjust the shimming. One of the things I need to post but too lazy or active and out not to.

Install a M110 spring. I know what your thinking "WTF LW you now want me to install a stronger spring" well here is a little explanation. In the next step you are going to loose some cylinder real-estate and the spring needs enough tension to return at a higher speed. Why? If the spring is too slow you could conflict with the sector gear and risk stripping/damaging gears and pistons. Leading to the next step...

Gears and Piston. Pistons usually come in a variety of strengths for a variety of set ups. For this case, a CQB set up. You need piston teeth that are strong and reinforced, but the overall piston body to be light. I use these:
http://weaponblender.com/index.php?productID=940 Of course at that pricing things are really hit-or-miss...just consider that piston as a example not a recommendation. Also doing a AoE adjustment will preserve your piston, and give you a quicker trigger to shot reaction time by increasing the amount of torque initially put on the catch tooth. Gears...As I told TheOneNamedMike the stock gears should be fine if they are made of steel and have thick teeth. Genuine ratios should be perfect for your set up and stock gears are usually engineered to take a small variety in springs...M110 is not going to break stock gears. That is if they are not crap.

Another thing I usually add but not what other people do add is a bearing guide. It helps the spring stay in position at those speeds and gives you a uniform performance. To prevent this " like 390 FPS here- 370 FPS there. "

Should run you no more than $100 if you are smart with the money and depending on who you know. Don't just buy a expensive full metal piston to get the same results as the one nearly 75% less the price.

Okay, I see. So I won't be set back too much.

Thanks, LW, I really, really appreciate all your help!

LW is the best!

Just one last thing about the LiPo batteries.

Invest in a LiPo checker. Not really expensive devices but some require different adapters to plug into the battery. http://cheapbatterypacks.com/?menu=B94GDDD543&sid=50705

And a good charger is always a must. I have seen a budget LiPo charger for around $25. So just look around and see what everyone else has to offer.

I've got a smart charger, a Hi-Tech or something like that. Wouldn't that work?

No LiPo batteries have a completely different chemistry so they call for a different charger.

If you just plug it into a NiMh charger it would damage the lipo or set fire.

Hmm... okay, makes sense. Thanks, LW!