NOT MY POST ! I got it from Airsoft-Mechanics and though you guys would like it. ALL CREDIT TO GOES TO GhostSniper48
This is not my original idea, I just adapted parts of it to suit my needs.
this is copied from a post i made on another forum, let me know if its missing anything.
Im showing this on a vsr-10, but it can be done on almost any rifle.
First here is a diagram and instruction manual I found online for the CA M24.
Alright, Parts list.
The Adjustment Ring
3/4" pvc, about 6 inches is all you really need
3/4" pvc pipe tube coupler
Thin walled 1" pvc pipe.
1" pcv pipe cap. It's just a cup like piece that fits over the end of the pvc pipe.
3/8" nut
The locking Ring
A BIG washer. Mine is about 1 7/8" in diameter. It's not an ordinary washer. it's made of some very hard metal.
a 3/8" nut cut in half. [I'll show you how later]
The Other parts
2 specially cut shaped pieces of 2-by-4
a 1/2" dowel rod (I used 1/2" bolts, But I think a dowel rod will work better)
a 3/8" bolt [mine is 7 inches long but thats probably more than you'll need, 6" will do]
A random flat piece of scrappable plastic, or metal. (I used Metal)
Tools
a drill
a saw of some sort.
a lot of low grit sandpaper.
a 1/2" drill bit and a 3/4" drill bit.
a hacksaw.
Highly recommended
a Dremel tool with barrel sander
a Belt Sander
Exacto knife.
Materials
Black spray paint
Epoxy
Superglue
2" wide masking tape.
I had a bit of trouble getting the bolts perfectly straight and parallel but that can remedied that with some bondo.
In this mod I have permanently modified the stock, there is no going back, do not attempt if your not sure of your abilities
I'll break it down into the different parts you have to build. 1. is the locking ring. 2. is the adjusting ring. 4 is the stock piece. 5 is the butt stock.
The Locking ring ring This locks the adjustment ring and keeps it from turning. What you'll need:
A BIG washer. Mine is about 1 7/8" in diameter. It's not an ordinary washer. it's made of some very hard metal.
a 3/8" nut cut in half.
Epoxy.
Scotch Tape.
Sandpaper
Drill
Hack saw blade
3/8 inch bolt [NOT the one you will use for the final stock. Just get a junker 2 inches long or something]
Ok first thing you need to do is cut the nut in half. Get your drill nut and bolt. Screw the nut onto the bolt as far as it will go and stick the bolt in the drill. Now with the drill spinning rest the hack saw blade against the nut. Try and get it as close to the center as possible. Keep going until the nut is cut in half. Clean it up with sandpaper until it's flat and the same width as the washer.
Get your scotch tape out and tape a piece across the hole in the washer. Lay the washer on the table with the sticky side of the tape UP. Now take your nut and once it's centered in the hole, press it against the tape. the tape will keep it in place while you pour epoxy around the sides. leave to dry. Once it's dry you should be able to just pull the tape off and have this:
The Adjustment ring Ok for this one your gonna need the following:
3/4" pvc, about 6 inches is all you really need
3/4" pvc pipe tube coupler
Thin walled 1" pvc pipe.
1" pcv pipe cap. It's just a cup like piece that fits over the end of the 1" pvc pipe.
3/8" nut
epoxy
a saw of some sort to cut the pipe
drill
3/8" drill bit
sandpaper
Cut a 5/8" ring off of the 3/4" pipe coupler, thin walled 1" pvc pipe and the 1" pvc pipe cap. [I suggest you cut off a little more than 5/8" and sand down to 5/8"] Now the point of cutting all these rings is to glue them inside each other like Russian dolls, until you've only got one ring. I used superglue to glue them together. Now the 3/4" pipe should be able to fit into the center of your ring like this:
Now just drill 5 holes around the outside using a 3/8" drill bit. Make sure your holes are centered, and evenly spaced around the outside of the ring. [the picture below should give you and idea, I drilled 6 holes but I'm pretty sure 5 is more accurate]
Ok now take that piece in the middle, the 6 inch piece of 3/4" pvc pipe and a nut. Your gonna do the same thing you did with the washer, only this time it's a lot harder. First take another piece of scotch tape and lay it on the table sticky side up. Place a 3/8" nut in the center of the tape. Stuff a piece of a cotton ball or tissue paper in the center of the nut to protect the threads. Now take the 3/4" pipe and place it over the nut sticking it onto the tape. Make sure you get the nut exactly centered in the pipe. I just dribbled epoxy down into the tube around the nut, trying to get as much as possible down around the nut. Let that dry and once it does dry turn it around, take off the tape, and put some more epoxy around the nut from that side. Once it dries it should look like this.
Remember, since your cutting a ring of the END of each piece, one side [the side you didn't cut] Will be SQUARE. When your gluing the rings together lie them on a table with the SQUARE SIDE DOWN. Then when the glue has dried sand the other side until all the different rings are flat.
Phew... That was a lot of work, but thats nothing to the next part.
The Stock piece
A piece of 2-by-4
a wood saw
a lot of low grit [I'd say use 60 grit sandpaper
and preferably a dremel tool with a barrel sander bit, or even better, a belt sander.
a 1/2" drill bit and a 3/4" drill bit
Drill
a 2 inch piece of masking tape.
an exacto knife.
Ok pull the rubber butt pad off of your gun. See that notch it fits into? I cut that off with a saw and sanded it flat. This will forever keep you from ever using your rubber butt pad again. This is not necessary, you do not have to do this if you do not want to However It looks better if you do so I did lol.
Now take that piece of tape and place it over the back of your stock so it covers the hollow part. Now take your exacto knife and carefully cut along the inside of the stock. You will end up with a piece of tape that is the exact shape of the hollow part of your stock. Stock that on the 2-by-4. Using your wood say rough cut that piece out. After a lot of sanding [use that piece of tape as a guide] you will end up with a piece like this:
Notice the notch cut in the bottom, take a look in your stock and you'll see why. There are some tube like things on the bottom part of the stock. I cut and sanded those down about 2 inches in and than cut the notch in the wood piece to get it to fit. As your sanding your piece test fit it regularly, you want it to fit tightly. Like this:
Ok if you got this far the worst part is behind you.
Ok now as you can see in the last picture I've marked the center with a line down the center. Do the same thing to your piece.
Now Measure from the very top of the STOCK down 3/4" and make a mark with a pencil, than make a circal around it. Now from that mark, measure down 3/8" and make another mark. Ok take the adjustment ring you made and hold it against the butt of the stock so that it's just underneath the second mark you made and exactly on the center line. Use your pencil and make a mark underneath the ring. From that mark measure down 3/8" and make a mark and draw a circle around it. The LAST mark you need to make is one exactly between the 2 circle marks. That hole will be for your adjustment ring. When your done it should look something like this.
These marks will show you where to drill your holes. at the 2 circle marks drill a 2 holes all the way through using a 1/2" drill bit. It's very important that you get these exactly straight and if you can use a drill press do so. Drill the middle hole using a 3/4" drill bit. 3/4" isn't big enough for the 3/4" pvc pipe to fit through so your gonna need to widen the hole with sandpaper.
Take that scrap piece of metal, be imaginative, I used a piece of metal sheeting, but a plastic frisbee would also work. Put it against the butt of your stock and draw an outline on it. Cut out the outline . Now take your stock piece and put it in the stock like in the picture above. Make sure it's flush with the outside edges. Take your plastic piece and glue it onto the wood piece. Make sure you line it up so it matches the stock, and make sure you only glue it to the wood piece. Once the glue is dry get the wood piece out of there [I used a long thin pole to poke it out from the front part of the stock] I added extra glue to it once I got it out. Now just drill out the holes through the plastic piece.
Now if your like me, when you took your dowel rods (or in my case, bolts) and put them into your holes they came out at wierd angles. Well I've got something to tell you, if you didn't get those 2 holes perfectly straight, your stock won't function. Do not panic! mine didn't work either. First I drilled the holes out a little wider, so that the dowel rods could wiggle back and forth a little. Than I sanded the tops and bottoms of the holes so that each hole opened out in a V shape.
The Buttstock
This piece is what actually moves out and in.
A piece of 2-by-4
the Rubber buttstock from your rifle
Basically your creating another piece of wood to fit into the rubber piece. Take the rubber piece hold it against the 2-by-4 and draw an outline of it. Cut out the outline, and sand the hold piece down the that line. Do the tape thing again, where you put a piece of tape against the rubber piece, cut out the inside, and stick it on the wood piece. Take another piece of masking tape, but this time it should be 3/4" wide [1" is fine to] Wrap that tape around the top of the wood peice so it's flush with the top. Sand the wood down under the tape until your rubber butt plate fits onto it. Don't forget to cut a groove with a saw for it to fit into. When your done it should look like this:
Except you haven't drilled your holes yet, that comes next. Take your 2 pieces and line them up against one another. Take a pencil and poke it through each hole and draw a ring against the sides of the holes. Your should now have 3 circles on your second wood piece. Find the center of each hole and mark it.
On the top and bottom marks drill 2 holes with a 1/2" drill bit about half way down. Use a 3/8" drill bit on the middle mark. This one has to go all the way through so make sure you get it straight. I however have a certain knack for not drilling straight holes, call it a gift. Anywho I had to widen all the holes so the dowel rods and bolt could fit through easily.
Now you need to glue your 2 dowel rods into the 2 holes. To make sure you glue them in straight however you need to leave the rods in the first stock piece you made with it's nice bondo guides Put a little wood glue in the bottom of each hole, and press the stock piece right up against the butt plate while the rods are gluing. Once that has set you can put a lot more glue in around the sides of each of the rods.
Once the hole thing has hardened up solid, you need to anchor your bolt in the center hole. Screw it through the hole, and into your adjustment ring. Once it's screwed all the way in it should look like this:
[im]
https://2img.net/h/i528.photobucket.com/albums/dd327/ghostsniper48/pc030002ib9.jpg[/img]Cover the head of the bolt with glue to make sure it's anchored. Once that dries... your done!
Well not entirely done because your probably gonna want to paint it.
Phew... that was long. I somehow doubt that anybody will want to attempt this, but I could be wrong. Anyway if you have any questions feel free to ask.
this is how mine turned out.