Free Minigun Pattern-files linked

I wrestled this back from the book-keeper (chocolate-covered Oreos are powerful items). It's the patterns for the "Hailforce" minigun.

This is a design that I don't sell patterns for any longer, because it's a bit complex, and takes quite a bit more fiddling to get right.
So you're on your own with it!












You were just looking at an airsoft M14!

Pattern files are LINKED, because they are all HUGE
Print on 8.5x 11 paper, fit to page, no margins, 300dpi.
ACDSee is an image program that is VERY friendly for this task, and you can get a trial version.
http://www.air-sharp.com/hailforce001.jpg
http://www.air-sharp.com/hailforce002.jpg
http://www.air-sharp.com/hailforce003.jpg
http://www.air-sharp.com/hailforce004.jpg
http://www.air-sharp.com/hailforce005.jpg
http://www.air-sharp.com/hailforce006.jpg
http://www.air-sharp.com/hailforce007.jpg
http://www.air-sharp.com/hailforce008.jpg
http://www.air-sharp.com/hailforce009.jpg
http://www.air-sharp.com/hailforce010.jpg

See it in BLACK here:
http://www.air-sharp.com/freeminipattern.html

I'm getting bugged silly about making these NOW, so...
The patterns are available, and you really don't need a CNC. These are intentionally simple shapes, a $14 coping saw (or better, a $99 scroll saw) and a drill, maybe a rat-tail file, are all you really need.


This panel represents a chunk of 6mm ABS, 24" x 10.25"(these are the machine offsets).
Outside of the tubing parts, this is all the parts that need to be fabbed to make one of the little minis in the renders posted previously.
Parts List:
3" (i.d.)ABS Celcon tubing (yes, common black plastic pipe from the hardware store):
One ea., 9" long.
One ea., 13" long.
One ea., 6" long.

1/2" (i.d. again)PVC tubing:
Seven ea., 17.75" long.

A small handful of #6 x 1/2" sheetmetal screws, and the 18 components depicted above, along with a stripped Chi-Com M14, and you have a MINI-Minigun.
[imghttp://www.air-sharp.com/HailForce000001.jpg[/img]

It's less than three feet long, assembled. The barrel pack is 3.5" in diameter.
A can of Rockstar is 6.25 inches high, and just over 2 and 5/8ths in diameter.
Here's a render of a CAD model, along with a few "actual size" Rockstar cans for comparison.
Shown with handles folded:


And deployed:




I set this up so a 24" "repair section" of 3" ABS from the hardware store could be cut right at 13", leaving the "scrap" 9" long. The 13" section becomes the main body tube, the 9" becomes the "drive motor" casing (this will also double as the ammo dump).
Then I just have to find a 6" section in the shop to become the "delinker".
This will actually hold the power pack, so a longer section may be used.


...at times, Rockstar Makes Killbucket!

This will also need a Bissel Vac Belt to drive the barrels, and an RC car motor.
An aluminum spacer from McMaster-Carr (.115" I.D. x 1" x3/16 O.D." rnd 4N100R18AP) will extend the motor's shaft.



http://www.halted.com/commerce/ccp20205-motor-6-12vdc-6v-1-35a-w-damper-11500rpm-0-20389.htm
Barrel drive motor here.

On BB-feed lines:
Hard plastic lines just didn't work out for me. Most would stop the BB's if bent too far, and even if not bent, had length limitations due to friction inside the lines.
McMaster-Carr to the rescue!
#9664K49 continuous length spring. 36" long. $3.36 each.
Need something longer? You can connect lengths up using silicone tubing segments.
It just so happens that the perfect size is handily available. The nearby Wal-Mart has replacement slings for the "Wrist Rocket" slingshots, at a measly $2.25. Cut into 1" to 1-1/2" chunks, it makes cheap, secure connectors.



The grip was a bit bulky, but really wasn't hard on my mitts.
This is more comfy, and works really, really nice.


You can firmly grip the handle without activating the switches.
A bit more pressure at the points indicated, and you can feel the buttons snap on/off readily.


It folds flat against the body without any worry of accidental activation.
The pivot bolt is adjustable for tension, and the grip can be operated in its folded position, or anywhere up to 60degrees from the barrel axis.
Since I have a few hundred servo leads lying about, I pressed one into place as a handle disconnect. The grip controls a set of relays with low current, so the wires can be tiny with no problems.


The BB-fill port glued in, I'll use a plastic cap as a closure, maybe fake a "motor power cable" coming from it.


The front grip will be a foam-covered tube. It's Photoshopped in for the moment.

World's biggest roll of box tape? This year's "Giveaway Gun" taking form.
1/3rd scale, based on an airsoft MP7 and a reworked electric drill transmission.


Each barrel tube is 3/8" diameter. As you can see, the cable harness isn't installed yet.


Look close, and you'll see an MP5K Hicap stuck to the rear of the gun body. This one's NOT motorized, because it works very nice when fully wound. Plus, it forces some rest on the puny MP7 gearbox:



We need a TinyTerminator now.


The small mini compared in size to an AR.


SO much easier to work on the tiny ones!


More to come on the little one, making the front loop from aluminum, and adding a shoulder strap, a lipo, and some Fed-mandated orange tippage...

Minigun CAD Renders:































Everything's built in 3D to prove the patterns before I make one.

wow killbucket is there anything you can't do?

Minigun, as sidearm, albeit a humongous one:

What's really neat about it?


It makes anything next to it...


Seem very much LARGER.

What probram do you use to do the 3-D rendering?

StudioMax 3.1, and Bryce2.

This is something that you are in the process of building? If so, how much do all of the raw materials cost you to build one of those?

Things I USED to build. I still provide the patterns for most of it.

wwwinterstateplastics.com

About $20 worth of plastic, and use 10-15tpi blades. CLAMPS are important with ANY power tools.
A Scroll saw is MUCH better for cutting plastic than a jigsaw.

How many times have you needed just a bracket, or a widget to complete a project? Isn't it maddening to need the one item you couldn't possibly buy, anywhere?
If you could only make your own...

TURBOcad:
http://www.turbocad.com/Products/TurboCAD14/Deluxe/tabid/100/Default.aspx
Just $149.95, but I got mine at Fry's for less than $100.
EASY to learn, comes with tutorials. You will be designing stuff the first day!

So you draw what your heart desires, then print it at 100% actual size.


A step bit and a centerpunch are handy items to have for this project. we'll see the Scrollsaw a bit later...

Not seen in the next pic very well: First cover the sheet stock with contac paper. When you go to remove your layouts, you'll be happy you did. Get some spray adhesive and fix the prints to your chosen material:


Then mark and drill the holes. Do this with the parts still in as large as possible chunks. This will minimize fixturing, you can save a bunch of time doing this. Then cut out your parts using a Scrollsaw:


TOP SECRET: Use these, and only these, blades:
Vermont American #30423
(5" long, 11.5 teeth per inch, .045 blade depth, .017 thick.)
Cuts ABS and PVC like butter. Slow speeds are best for ABS.

Your freshly cut parts. If you're proud of your work, take pictures and show the world. Maybe show others how you did it:


Do a test assembly to make sure no fitting is needed.
The worst time to find out you needed to file an edge is after it has nice sticky glue all over it.

If everything fits, grab the glue or fasteners.

Maybe a coat of paint and some doodads:


You can make just about any bracket or other part you might need this way.

So you didnt CNC these part? that takes a grreat amount of skill to be able to dimension those and contruct that by hand. Nice work. I have been working with CAD, for two years now through my school. I love it, It is great to see things like this made with a program and skills that I would love to apply myself to someday.

I now have a CNC. The 1919 receiver above, however, was handmade using a coping saw, in my early days.

http://www.air-sharp.com/archive_montys.htm
My online tribute to the now-defunct Monty's Miniguns site.

I expect I need AutoCAD to view these stencils...or are they in PDF format?

Perfect for D-Con 2010!!!

Cool. If my new group is interested we can divvy up the overall price and begin production!

Says on the site: You do NOT need CAD, they're ready to print hires JPG's!
http://www.air-sharp.com/pattern_description.html
Printing info here.

Lone Wolf wrote:

Cool. If my new group is interested we can divvy up the overall price and begin production!

As long as "production" means just team guns. The patterns are strictly for non-commercial use only.

Indeed, I wouldn't sell your design out...

unless I was just wanting to get rid of a used gun

Just sent off the next-to-last Hailforce body out to one of my fave customers, free of charge. Actually, it was gathering dust, and I needed to take up some space in a box I was sending him. Nice to be finding the FLOOR again in the shop!

I have one more assembled body from last year, painted an eyeball-searing Victory Red. I've had an idea for some time now, of adding a mini to the truck:
http://www.air-sharp.com/customtruck.htm

I'll be making the tonneau cover for the back soon, I've dropped the minigun drawing into the CAD...
___________________________________________________________________________________
Literally hundreds of new pics up at the site, including a page that shows how I conceive of and build a custom, one-of-a-kind minigun:
http://www.air-sharp.com/customminibuild1.htm

Now the biggest minigun info on the web!
Necro-bump, moving this to the main site.