Making my G36C

A while ago, being 2 years. I bought my first AEG, a JG G36C. Now I am looking to sell the gun within the next 6 months, but I plan to make the gun LiPo compatible by adding a few mods.

I already short stroked the sector gear and adjusted the AoE on the piston. However I had to mod my piston to prevent it from stripping by shifting the single metal tooth back far enough. I am not impressed by my labor. When the piston is on the return cycle it slams into the sector teeth noisily and it kind of worries me. So obviously a new piston is a high priority, not only for the health of the internals, but also for stealth. A solid piston would be a lot less noisy than the one I modded for the job.

Question: I need this piston to be really light but strong like a G&P white piston, but I need a cheaper alternative if there is any. Anyone want to help me out and post some links on what you experienced to have those results?

My next goal is to make the gun LiPo compatible. So far I only have a list and a very basic understanding of how the LiPo set up should work. Anyways, I created a list on what I need.
--->18 AWG rewired and deans. ( Slob, go to cheapbatterypacks.com and click on materials....you'll frickin jizz your pants)
--->EG 1000 High Speed motor
--->MOSFET. I already have a great source for that. If any of you know spamman from Infected Airsoft from GA. He is the guy to talk to if you want a MOSFET.
--->Reinforced GB shell w/ 6mm bushings.

That is pretty much IT for my list. If anyone has advice that can steer me to make better decisions on what to/or not to do with this build please post.
I appreciate all the help I can get.

A polycarb piston might be the answer for you.
http://www.airsoftpost.com/matrix-high-speed-full-teeth-piston-metal-teeth-strip-airsoft-gearbox-p-30044.html

Metal teeth, light weight polycarb, will definetly give you more ROF from a light weight piston.

Also, making it li-po ready, just incase, buy a long burning fuse, so it won't break as fast, and it'll be fine to use with Li-po.

Has high speed gears entered your mind?

Don't take my word for it, i personally havn't done any of this so I understand if you don't trust a new booty like me .

That piston should work, thanks for the find.

I am not really planning to install highspeed gears. I want to geep the genuine ratio gearset because someone may want to replace tohe spring down the road and I want it to have the torque needed to pull the spring at a still high RoF. IF I were to install any new gearset. I would actually add a torque up and in the process install a M120. Then install a high speed magnum or EG1000. Check these out:
http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/shs-torque-up-gear-set-for-gearbox-v2-3-32-1.html I believe the sector gear is a dual cycle from the looks. Because of the price, I highly doubt it.

If you were to add a M120 spring, what kind of torque upgrades would you add?
Also lonewolf, you have to remember that it's using Li-po, so 400ish + fps and a ROF say worst case, 20BPS, well, that'll turn some people unhappy...

I agree completely. But that wouldn't be the case, because I short stroked the sector gear, the M120 would be for anyone who wanted to compensate for lost FPS. Maybe a M120 is a little much, unless we are talking about a dual cycle sector gear. So nevermind, but I still say at least M110 or SP110 or PPA110

Right now I am satisfied with the pneumatics. I am getting less than 2" spreads @ ~25yds with a stock barrel, stock hop up, .20 g bb, modded piston head, and single port cylinder.

About the torque upgrades. I made a copy of this exact same thread on a couple of different forums, because there are a lot of people in my area who are attracted to the LiPos. So that is a big thing around here. Anyways, I was advised not to use a torque up set, instead get a new genuine set, redo the short stroking. OR buy a high speed SHS gearset and not short stroke it.

Yeah, definetly go for a SP110 or M110 spring, will bring you to hopefully about 380 which is perfect for field and maybe CQB...
Thing about M120 springs you would have to torque up the gearbox.
Torque motors would have to be installed, making you lose precious ROF

actually, I think jg guns come stock with an m120

Some do. not all. For example the G36C just has a 100% spring. Nothing fancy.

Still, I wouldn't personally go for a m120 spring for the sake of the ROF and safety of airsoft players.
Were trying to promote the game through honor, fairness, and absolute fun. Not news reports on how some kid got 20 bbs imbelded in him, and he had to rush to the hospital...

No a M120 will not do that... And now I am not even worried about the spring tension. What I have now is fine because I am buying a new gearset.

But your talking like I am installing a M190 that fires at around 500 FPS...One my motor would not be able to pull that. Springs like these are limited to Spring Action only like sniper rifle.

A M120 spring is actually pretty common. Any airsoft event / OP / or even a game. I garuntee, anyone who upgraded their M4 to get better accuracy put in a TBB and a M120. Averaging at around 400-410 FPS.

A M120 isn't really much different. If I were to buy a PPA120, I would actually be getting a 115-119% spring because each spring to brand and precentage is actually unique in how long and how far apart the short frequency sections are to the longer frequencies.

Oh i could have sworn m120 was around 440 FPS...
Must been thinking about the wrong thing...

Well if you do get a spring upgrade remember to upgrade the bushings..
Also note, stock guns sometimes don't come perfectly shimmed, just letting you know that..

I knew that, And I reshimmed and added bearings already

Yea you can make a M120 shoot 440 with the right upgrades, but that isn't bad compared to what I have seen.

Then your set to add the m110 spring!

Remember when you short stroke to remove the same number of teeth from the piston, and to modify the second and third tooth after the engagement tooth.

A cheap alternative that works really well when short stroking are the Pistons from TM( Stock, white ), they are sturdy and handle the high ROF well. Don´t forget that when you do short stroking, you are not going to be getting the same amount of compression from the spring, so a M120 is actualy performing as a M110, or M100, depending on the amount of modification.

Later when you have your hands around `` Short Stroking ´´, try the `` Swiss Cheese ´´ mod to reduce piston weight, getting your 35g piston down to a weight of 9g does make a difference of a few BB/per sec more.

Well I did the short stroking mod. and It has worked. OKAY but I don't think its even going to be necessary when I install a hispeed gearset, and motor.

The only reason I would short stoke is to keep my tight spreads that I am getting now with the current short stroke job. I only removed two teeth and got a few more bps, however because it is so small...for reasons I stated above, its not necessary. My first mod ever, was similar to swiss cheesing. I took a larger drill bit and made the holes in my piston head larger to allow more air into it. I'll look at it again with my scale and see if I can cut out another 10g from the base which has nothing taken away from it....and I should probably find lighter piston shims and redo the AoE

Another tech locally recommended I should try out this piston, http://cgi.ebay.com/Storm-Tech-Airsoft-MAX-Pressure-AEG-Piston-Full-Teeth_W0QQitemZ180401835334QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2a00c98d46
It has the two things I am looking for...a feather made of steel.

EDIT: I have another good question to add into the piston. Maybe I can buy a really strong G&P Piston or one from my local tech who forms his own "indestructible" pistons. I was wondering if the same thing applied to pistons to the 'Swiss Cheesing" mods. If you could drill a hole on both right/left sides of the piston about 3/4" diameter and 1" spacing from the perimeter of each circle. Would you be able to get a lighter piston?
This of course means drilling through the guide that is on the side of the piston, the one that meshes with the GB shell. But wouldn't that also reduce some friction too?

You can drill through the guide rails, just make sure that you remove any residue and raised material from around the hole. As far as the hole size goes, I find that the 3/4 is a bit extreme, personaly I use 1/2 and 1/4 inch, but what the hey, if larger works for you, go for it !

How about this baby. I forgot which podcast but it said this is the best piston.

Looks like a carbon copy of the X-Fire, nothing special

Yea I agree. I think I am going to check out the piston that is made by my local source. Just I am a little hesitant to spend $70 on a "indestructible" piston.