JG Bar 10 FREE MODS tutorial with pics...

So A lot of people on the forum are interested in the Bar 10 because they have heard of the easy mods that can be done to improve the FPS. I decided to make a tutorial for those thinking of purchasing one just because of this...

First, I just wanted to state upfront that if you try this and your gun is broke afterwards, it is not in any way my fault that you suck... mine works fine after I did it.

Second, prior to mods, my stock JG Bar 10 G-Spec (shorter barrel with mock surpressor) shot .20 BB's at 342 FPS. After mods, it is shooting right at 450 FPS... Stormtrupr can attest to its accuracy and range as he played a few rounds with it at our last practice.

Third, results may vary depending on several factors, which include inner barrel length (G-Spec model being shorter has lower velocity like mine), where you cut air brake, how much teflon tape you use, etc...

DISASSEMBLY:

STEP 1
The Bar 10 breaks down quite easily. The first step is to locate the three screws on the bottom of the gun that basically hold it together. Kind of looks like this:
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STEP 2
After taking out the screws the barrel / receiver should come apart from the stock. You will no longer need the stock so just set it aside. Now you are looking at the receiver, which should look like this:
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STEP 3
Next you will need to remove this pin, BUT before you do that make sure you take the trigger guard off as you may break it when pushing the pin out:
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*The best way to do this is get a regular screw driver and push it out.

STEP 4
At this point you can now pull the cylinder out of the receiver.
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STEP 5
Now we are going to open up the cylinder. Do not be afraid... its not an AEG mechbox.
*On the Bar 10 there is a very nice and easy way to take the cylinder head off, it simply screws in and out (I know, what a concept right?). To make it even easier, there is a nice indent on the cylinder head that will allow you to get an allen wrench or screwdriver in to unscrew it.
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THE AIR-BRAKE MOD WARNING: This will make your replica louder!!!!
STEP 1
Pull the piston out of the cylinder.
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STEP 2
Time for the air brake to meet a hacksaw...
BEFORE:
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AFTER:
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*NOTE - Make sure you sand down the air brake where you just hacked it off. Most likely there will be some rough edges otherwise.

As you can see, the air-brake mod takes about 30 seconds once you get into the cylinder. Not bad for probably an extra 60-90 FPS.

*While you have the piston out of the cylinder, you may notice that the O-ring isnt all that tight of a fit and you dont have a "full" seal inside of the cylinder. This is common on the Bar 10's. I would recommend taking the piston to a hardware store and find some different O-rings that may create a tighter fit -OR- you could also wrap a little teflon tape around the piston right at the O-ring and that may also produce a tighter fit.

THE TEFLON MOD:
This is pretty simple, there are different variations of it... I didnt get real carried away. First, I wrapped a little bit around the cylinder threads before putting it back together just to make sure I was getting a good seal at that location. Second, I wrapped a little bit around the tip of the cylinder's air nozzle... this will insure that all the air coming out of the air nozzle is propelling the BB forward and not escaping around the back of the chamber. Sorry I didnt take pictures of it, as it seems people do different things with the teflon mod... it is really up to you to decide. I would imagine these mods were good for maybe 10-30 FPS, however I didnt test prior to doing them since I did both the Air-brake and Teflon mod at the same time.

REASSEMBLY
Basically follow the steps listed above backwards and it you will have it back together in no time.

G-SPEC FUNCTIONAL SURPRESSOR: NOTE: THIS IS NOT INTENDED TO WORK ON A REAL FIREARM... DO NOT TRY IT!!!
After doing the Air-brake mod you will now have a replica that is easily twice as loud. To lower this noise, I went back to my early paintball days and I came up with an easy solution. The following steps WILL decrease the volume substantially. Ask the Juggernauts... it works. *I will try to get some sort of audio file on here sometime just to prove it, but I have no idea of how to do that right now.

STEP 1
Take the Surpressor off the replica and unscrew the threaded side. There should be a tube inside the surpressor that has holes all over it, but there is some sort of insert that covers the holes from actually venting any air through them. As a result the air goes out the end of the surpressor making the volume about the same as not having the surpressor on at all.
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STEP 2
Get a drill bit that fits just about perfect in the holes on the tube that was in the surpressor. Kinda obvious, but you drill out all the holes on the tube. MAKE SURE YOU GET ALL THE DEBRIS OUT OF THE INSIDE OF TUBE BEFORE USING!!!!
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STEP 3
Find something to dampen the sound... I had another mock surpressor that came with some foam rings in it. They did the job for me, however, other materials that may work would be stereo insulation, cotton, etc...
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STEP 4
Wrap the tube with dampening material.
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STEP 5
Put it together and then test... you should notice that the main noise you are hearing is coming from the internals of the gun and not out the end of the barrel like it was prior to this mod.
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Hopefully you find that helpful and encouraging if you were scared to attempt it on your Bar 10. It really is quite simple and pretty straight forward. If you have any question about it, feel free to private message me.

Wow great guide. Very easy to understand and good pics. I vote for sticky.

I am glad you liked the tutorial. I did think of something I need to add in the reassembly section.

Great post Seabass. I'm sure this post will be linked to many times in the future as a good guide to use. Great use of pictures. I'll make sure to direct users of TASS to it for upgrades on the Bar-10. Thanks!

i vote stikki!!!!!

anyone else?

sticks

yeah, got to say stikki with... sticks lol

if you put a srtonger spring in thatgun how much more fps would you get?? and how much do i have to worry about something braking??
P.S i have one like it but its a clone but made the same..

when u cut that thing what does that do? and can i do that to my WELL L96?

This is going to be VERY helpful for when i get my JG BAR 10 thanks alot, but i also heard you can stick cotton or some kind of dampening material on one side of the trigger. I was trying to watch a youtube video on it but it wasn't not the best video, so i was wondering if you guys knew anything about it?

Also before i forget do you pack as much cotton that can fit or how much is enough?

great job with the mod it was very easy to follow and the pics. helped....second if you have a clone of a VSR-10 this will not work the air brake is not the same in all models i went to try it on mine and it wasn't the same...just a warning to those who have clones it may not work

Alright so i have a question how do you know what bipod will fit this gun? Any suggestions on what bipods to get?

i think there is a small RIS rail at the front of the gun that yo can attack any RIS compatible Bi-Pod too. dpending on which site you order frm it might some with a bi-pod.

sticks

Alright so just look for a bipod that can connect to a RIS rail?

Yes. It should look like a bipod with a block at the top, there should also be a thumb screw on the block.

sticks

Can you post a pick of the silencer on the gun?

I just ordered my JG BAR 10 and i can't wait to do all of these mods this page is so helpful, but i was also wondering around how much is everyone paying for their bipods?

honestly man i would just get a real harris bipod for a real fire arm... I had one for my real AR-15 and now its on my model 700 *cough* really an M-24 now *cough* but im just gonna get a real harris one i think.

Seabass_9000 wrote:

Now we are going to open up the cylinder. Do not be afraid... its not an AEG mechbox.
*On the Bar 10 there is a very nice and easy way to take the cylinder head off, it simply screws in and out (I know, what a concept right?). To make it even easier, there is a nice indent on the cylinder head that will allow you to get an allen wrench or screwdriver in to unscrew it.

I can't seem to get my cylinder open, i have tried to unscrew it and all i end up doing is bending the brass, any ideas?

house119 wrote:

Seabass_9000 wrote:

Now we are going to open up the cylinder. Do not be afraid... its not an AEG mechbox.
*On the Bar 10 there is a very nice and easy way to take the cylinder head off, it simply screws in and out (I know, what a concept right?). To make it even easier, there is a nice indent on the cylinder head that will allow you to get an allen wrench or screwdriver in to unscrew it.

I can't seem to get my cylinder open, i have tried to unscrew it and all i end up doing is bending the brass, any ideas?

Just don't damage, look in your manual if you can. I usually youtube it.

thank you i will try u tube then!

yeah just browse around, thats what i do and i usually come up with good stuff

Can i do this on the Gspec version?

The silencer thing is clever but these mods are no substitute for Laylaxing the "Watch your language" out of your gun

for my bat then it is hard to get the stock and the barrle to fit togeathere and it snaps very load when it goes in to place shoud it do the